It’s raining coats this season in Milan and Paris with the knee-grazing layering wonders recontextualising the way we perceive menswear. Traditionally speaking, the basic function of a car coat or a knee-length duster is utilitarian, but give their visually-arresting appeal this time, it became seemingly evident that there was more to them than functionality. Long, lean, double breasted and tactile – the languid outer layers redefined layering like never before.
If Alessandro Sartori at Zegna set the mood of the season by peppering his vibrant suits with luscious and tactile overcoats, Giorgio Armani went tone on tone with his suit-meets-coat offerings. While MSGM added a panoply of shocking top coats to make an OMG-inducing impact, Prada – always the bellwether of the season, threw in an array of top coats, which came in the season-less camel hues and heritage fabrics.
Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele deserves a special mention for shaking the fashion week out of its complacent reverie with a powerful portrayal of ‘Masculine Plural’ by presenting a line-up which attempted to break the rigid mould of masculine gender identity. A long grey coat was layered with a pair of baggy and ripped denims and another outer coat was layered with the label’s Dionysus shoulder chain bag.
Fall needn’t be boring!
If you thought fall was all about sombre tones like black, brown and grey, this season was all about embracing look-at-me hues – be it a painter’s working coat at Dolce & Gabbana, which came with paint brushes in multi-pockets or the acid green puffer seen at MSGM. Stylist Akshay Tyagi opines that fall winter needn’t be boring and this season was all about celebrating a youthful spirit and a ‘more-is-more’ flavour.
“The autumn winter offerings today are a far cry from the gloomy and moody pieces as brands are going maximalist with their overall styling – be it the length of the coats or their volumes or the military-inspired detailing. Also, the voluminous street wear doesn’t suit all body types and hence the resurgence of clean, sharp and structured tailoring. Perhaps a reaction to the overbearing street wear trend. Also, I see double breasted tailoring going major,” says Akshay.
Heritage gets haute
Be it Prada or Gucci, brands explored the essence of the classic codes of tailoring and embraced heritage fabrics with elan. Designer Pranay Baidya opines that this season is inundated with seasonless coats, which are worth investing in. “I loved the Gucci outerwear which helps one make a seamless transition from day to evening and the Prada double breasted coat reminds me our very own beautiful Madras check from the South. Having said that, I’d like to add that it’s imperative to weave in one’s personality while toying with these fun colours and off-kilter styling techniques,” says Pranay.
Utilitarian appeal with an edge
If Fendi stayed true to its luxurious play of fur and presented some very covetable mink coats, Dolce & Gabbana showcased a knee-length leather top coat and also a flurry of double breasted pieces layered with multiple man bags. Stylist Isha Bhansali sees the interpretation of outerwear as rather edgy in its appeal. “These are not just utilitarian coats, but they have a lot of edge to them. I see a Harry Styles dressing inspired undercurrent with the increasing extrapolation of the classic tartans,” says Isha.
All in all, it’s not just about a coat up for grabs on a retail shelf today, but an anthropological instrument airing a sea of emotions.
